What's New at 120studio.com
2018 April 19
For some reason I'd forgotten to upload this a while back, so it's...
New: Developing B&W Film With Kodak HC-110: Mixing, Temperature Notes, etc.. Not a full film-developing procedure, but some of the basic information that I probably didn't include in the other articles.
2018 April 17
Micronta Benchtop MultimeterApril 2018
Minolta X-700 w/ 50mm f/1.8 lens 35mm Ilford HP5+ 400 at E.I. 400
Probably f/5.6 @ 1/30th
Kodak HC-110 Dilution B, 20% depletion = time factor 1.25, approx. 7 minutes at 70 F.
Classic Emulsions & New Ones
Kodak Tri-X 400 is my favorite B&W film of all time, second to none. I like Ilford HP5+ almost as much. (Delta and Tmax are also up there.) That said, I think it's always a good idea to try different films and developers, because some of them are better for certain lighting situations or subjects.
Foma is now making a new B&W film, Retropan 320. Available in 35mm, 120, 4x5, and it looks like they even have 8x10 available on there. When I can get hold of some of this film, I'll review it.
You can also get their regular Fomapan B&W film through this link.
Another film I've been wanting to try is Rollei Ortho 25. Somewhat high-contrast, very fine-grained. I'd really like to see what this can do with a good 35mm prime lens stopped down. Tripod, for certain.
Kodak brought back TMax P3200, which is great news. (Some of the ones for sale through that link could be expired rolls, but you should find the new P3200.)
Actually, 3200 films are more useful than they might seem, especially if you like to photograph indoor subjects in ambient light. When I actually pay attention to digital camera settings, I realize that ISO 3200 and 6400 are almost constantly being selected by the camera's Auto ISO function. So, a natively 3200 film can be of great benefit. Yep, I can push Tri-X to ridiculously high speeds, but I think I want to give Tmax 3200 a try.
A couple people have also noted that P3200 might be a step on the way to production of Ektachrome. I'm very eager to see the return of Ektachrome.
Rare Slide Film in 4x5
Ektachrome E100VS in 4x5 format. I never even tried this! Right now you can get a sealed (expired) box of it, refrigerator stored according to the seller, on the 'bay. Looks like there's some interest in this one.
2018 April 14
April 11, 2018
Mamiya RB-67 w/ 90mm f/3.8 non-C lens
120 Kodak Tri-X 400 @ E.I. 400
f/11 @ 1/400th handheld
HC-110 Dilution B, 500 ml at 70 F for 5 minutes 40 sec.
The light seals are good; ten sharply-focused pictures with no light leaks that I could notice.
2018 April 12
New: Developing 120 Film with the Universal Tank. Just a couple of quick notes for loading and developing 120 film.
New light seals in the Mamiya RB-67; test roll of Kodak Tri-X is a go. Film developing was successful. Made 1 liter of HC-110 Dilution B and used 500 ml of it for the roll. 5:40 @ 70 F, agit. 30s then 10s each min.; Stop 10-20 seconds; Rinse; Kodak Fixer 7 minutes; Rinse again; Negs are drying at the moment.
I could have had these developed and scanned last night, but I was plumb tuckered out. It started raining; last few pictures were taken with an umbrella over the '67.
Walking around with the tank-like RB67 on a heavy tripod, in the rain, while holding an umbrella, is kind of unwieldy, yet fun. Although the RB67 was at one time used by fashion photographers, it's not a fashion accessory. It's a big, bulky, serious, workhorse of a camera. This is not a hipster camera or anything of the sort. Because it doesn't have the cachet or design aesthetics of some other cameras, it's not trendy or sought-after by people who will tire of it in a year or two. I'm glad there are cameras like the RB67.
The only thing I don't like is that I'm so accustomed to square compositions that I composed some of these as if they were 6x6, using the whole ground-glass instead of the guide lines.
I'll try to post some scans this evening or tomorrow night.
2018 April 11
Digital Backs For 110
A reader from Switzerland asks whether I know of any digital backs for 110 film cameras. This is an interesting question, and though I don't know of any offhand, this sounds like it would be a good hack-project for some of the advanced electronics people. Arduino would probably be involved at some point, and I wouldn't doubt that it's possible to shoehorn a 1/2.3" sensor into one of these cameras. How to make it work, I do not know. The real difficulty is getting the sensor to "know" when the shutter is tripped, because with digital cameras you need pretty sophisticated electro-mechanical interfacing. (These guys would probably know more about it.) I could imagine some photoresistor contraption, but that could be way off. Then again if you used the right type of multimeter (such as this one which has a logic probe), taking apart and testing enough cheap digicams, you might eventually figure out how to rig something up.
Also, the diffraction effects are going to be considerable, thanks to the typical f/11 fixed focal length of many 110 cameras. A 1/2.3" sensor does best around f/4. They don't include f/11 on most of those types of digital cameras, and many that I've seen don't even have f/8.
Personally I would vastly prefer to shoot 110 film over anything digital. But it's still an interesting idea for a project.
New: How To Replace Light Seals in the Mamiya RB67. This could be a "Part I", because it mostly concentrates on how to disassemble the revolving back and the film holder so you can get to the light seals.
From here, though, it's fairly self-explanatory, especially if you've read this article.
2018 April 9
New: Early Spring. A film gallery.
2018 April 5
New: Speaker Polarity. A reader asks whether it's important to mind the polarity when connecting stereo speakers. Hopefully this article will answer that.
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