Yashica Electro 35
There are some people overpaying for this camera when they don't even know if everything works right. I'm going to help you with what
to look for in a used Electro 35.
We're also going to look at the general features of the camera.
My (former) Electro 35G. Looks great here, but at the time, it was in the early stages of the infamous
In This Article:
Price & Value
Choice of Film
Dealing With The Battery
This is a rangefinder camera made in Japan during the 1960's and
70's. The first Electro 35 came out in 1966. The "G"
series appeared around 1968.
These cameras are aperture-priority auto. They have no manual mode, but you can make the shutter speed
be 1/500th by taking out the battery. Then, on a sunny day, you
could just use f/11 with some 400 film (or f/8 with some 200 film) and
it would be about right. Or, with the battery installed, you
could set it to "flash" mode and have 1/30th of a second for
Mostly, though, you'll want to use the Electro 35 the way it was intended: as an aperture-priority
Aperture: f/1.7 to f/16
Battery (original): PX32
Battery (replacement): PX28 / PX28A / 4LR44 / L544 / A544
Film Advance: Manual
Film Rewind: Manual
Filter Size: 55mm
Flash: cold shoe w/ PC connector (35 G) / hot shoe (35 GS / GSN)
Flash Sync: Flash mode is 1/30th sec.
ISO / ASA Range: 12-500, manually set
Lens: Yashinon 45mm f/1.7
Manual Exposure Modes: Not really
Metering / Exposure: CdS / Aperture-Priority
Made In: Japan
Shutter: Leaf-type, controlled by an electromagnet
Shutter Speeds: 30" to 1/500th stepless (continuous range); also Bulb
Viewfinder: Coupled rangefinder
Year Introduced: 1966 (Electro 35) / 1968 (35 G) / 1970 (35 GS) / 1973 (35 GSN)
These are still around in yard sales and flea markets. I
wouldn't pay a whole lot for an untested one; there could be some repair issues.
Number one is the light
seals. Almost all of them have this problem, and you're going to
need to buy the materials to replace them. Foam is cheap
and yarn is cheap, but a couple trips to the store because you forgot
something... that adds up.
You'll also need to make a battery adapter if you want to be able to use a modern PX28
or 4LR44. There is a pitfall to doing this, and I've never seen
it mentioned on any other websites. We'll get to that later.
Third, watch out for the deteriorated rubber pad problem-- the
so-called "Pad of Death" (POD). You can see the pad by taking the top of
the camera off (special tools needed), but to replace it properly requires full disassembly of the
camera. After I took apart and fixed a Trip 35 that was already
supposed to have been overhauled, my enthusiasm for camera repair has sort of
Fourth, a lot of these have a stuck shutter. It can be un-stuck, but you need special tools and some repair skill.
Fifth, even if the shutter works, the light meter could be way off or
not working. This could be a "pad of death" problem, or maybe not.
Finally, the rangefinder itself can be off a bit, so that your focus
will be incorrect. Mine doesn't match up when the lens is set to
infinity; that doesn't seem good, but it doesn't necessarily mean
anything. If there is any focus discrepancy, you'll really
start to notice it if you're using the wider apertures (f/5.6 and down) at close distances. This camera can do
f/1.7, which is impressive compared to the "point and shoot" cameras that came out later. At that aperture, your focus had
better be right. If the rangefinder is off, you'll
know it for sure when you get those pictures back.
Unless you know the previous owner already did so, expect to have to
shoot a test roll just to check the metering and rangefinder
calibration. Take some close-up shots at f/1.7 or f/2, using a tape measure to check the distance. Make sure a
couple of your shots are scenery at infinity, though, perhaps shot at
1/500th according to the Sunny 16 rule (take the battery out). Pick the narrowest
aperture you can for those. That way if your rangefinder is way
off, at least the roll won't be a total waste. You'll get to see
the nice sharpness of this lens.
Camera has Bulb setting, which comes in handy on July 4th.
The 35G has a flash cold-shoe. GS and GSN have hot shoe.
Self-timer lever is on the lens barrel.
Price & Value
Some people are now selling iffy ones for more than they're worth. Lately there's been a glut
of sellers offering ones they haven't even tested, priced at three or
four times what they should be. They're asking
thirty, forty, fifty bucks... and you could end up with a Yashica
I've seen people asking over $100 for untested Electro 35's. If you don't know that it works, the value is more like $10.
Many auction sellers have no idea if the shutter speeds work or the
metering is accurate. Many don't even know if the shutter
operates at all. They say "looks great cosmetically, but not tested"...
and then they want as much for the camera as if it were completely refurbished. Thirty or forty dollars is still too much if there's a chance the metering is wrong, the shutter is stuck, or especially if the "POD" needs replacement. The whole point of buying this camera is
to use it. The whole point of choosing this camera over others is
that it's not an expensive camera.
I'll say this again. It doesn't matter how clean the camera looks. The internals
could be bad. The meter could be bad. There could be
little bits of deteriorated POD all through the mechanism.
Or, the shutter could work at 1/500 but not at other speeds. An untested Electro
35 is a potential space-wasting headache that you never get around to
fixing, because it's time consuming and tedious. This is a
brilliant camera, but only when it works.
Just wait it out, and along will come a seller with a more
realistic understanding of prices. It just takes some patience.
I paid five dollars for mine, and it had some issues. It did
not make the characteristic "thump" sound, which meant that the "Pad of
Death" was already going bad. If you pay much more, be sure the meter works, there's no fungus, and it doesn't
have any major problems (stuck shutter, etc). Make sure it has the
right "clunk" when the film lever is advanced. If there's no clunk,
or it happens later in the lever movement, there's a good chance it has a problem... and the
camera isn't worth more than ten dollars the way it is. The repair by a skilled person is going to cost some money.
The 45mm Yashinon lens is not quite a Summicron, but it's pretty good.
This was f/8, I'm pretty sure. There is slight vignetting.
Choice of Film
The top ISO on the Electro 35G is only ISO 500, but
for the 1960's that was pretty fast. The later models went up to ISO 1000,
which is nice to have. Kodak BW400CN can be rated at 1000 and
developed as 1000 to 1600 for great results (don't forget it's a C41
film). You could also do the same with Ilford HP5 400.
If it's going to be cloudy or evening, I would shoot 400 color negative film in the Electro 35G (see this article), or 800 if you have a GS / GSN.
If you're using 400+ film in daylight and you
want to take advantage of the bokeh at wide apertures, it would
normally put the shutter speed way out of range. In fact, even
100 film would be out of range in full sun when you're down at the
lowest f-numbers. A neutral-density (ND) filter lets you take shallow DOF shots
at 1/500th and slower.
I'd probably use a 2-stop ND filter (also called ND 0.6), although with 400
film you might want 3 stops (ND 0.9), maybe even 4. If you got a
later Yashica that goes up to ISO 1000, load it with 800 film and put a 4- or
5-stop ND filter on it for the daytime, then remove the filter for
evening shots. Don't forget to change the ASA setting for
the filter! The meter doesn't see through the filter.
you're doing a lot of daylight shooting, use 100 film.
That will allow use of the wider apertures, up to a certain point
(beyond which you'll need an ND filter). I highly recommend Kodak Ektar 100 (pick up a 5-pack here) or perhaps some Velvia slide film (5-pack here).
This camera can support the slower ISO's, as well. There's no reason you couldn't use Velvia 50 (you can buy a 5-pack here). On a full-sunny day that enables you to get down to f/4 without using an ND filter. Bokeh time!
The filter diameter is 55mm, by the way. If you use a filter that
darkens the exposure, make sure you know how much. It doesn't
meter through the lens. When I use a Cokin Varicolor, that's
three stops. Using 400 film, I set the ISO down to 64 for the
Varicolor filter. ISO 50 would be three full stops down from
400; ISO 64 is just slightly underexposed to give rich
color. Don't forget to turn the ISO setting back to normal when
you take the filter off! You can imagine how easy it would be to
I don't have any slides handy from this camera, but when it's working,
the light meter is plenty good enough to handle it, unlike some of
the cheap point-and-shoots that came out in the early 2000's.
Just make sure the "POD" problem isn't happening, or your metering
could be off.
I did the whole thing with black yarn and foam, as recommended by
Matt's Classic Cameras. I took one of those cheap foam paintbrush
things (97 cents for a 4-pack) and cut a strip out of it. I used
Loctite Crafter's Adhesive, which is a kind of acrylic. It's
supposed to dry for 24 hours, but I was out using the camera after
about 16 hours.
The foam worked well for the hinge light seal, which is the most
important one. Just make sure you don't cut the foam too thick,
because overly thick seals could deform the door when you try to close
it. That's hard to fix, if not impossible.
You have to be careful with the yarn. The top horizontal channel
has a section where you need to leave a space. I just put one
continuous strip of yarn in there, and it covered the film counter
reset. Not good. I did take a whole roll of film with it,
but it was hard to open the back. I also had to go back and cut the
yarn and remove a section for that little reset switch (it's hard to
You did make sure not to glue the yarn along the whole
Dealing With the Battery
The 4LR44 / PX28 battery is available at most any department store or online. The PX28 is too narrow and
too short for the Electro 35's battery well, so you'll need to adapt it
to fit. You could buy a TR164A which fits better (no adapter needed), but that's
harder to find locally (you can get one here).
If you've just gotten an Electro 35, you may be wondering how exactly to make a battery adapter. I bought some
special battery adapters from a guy and then found out I wasted my
money (argh!). The positive contact is made by a rivet type
of thing that has a rounded end. The rounded end keeps it from
making contact with the inside of the battery compartment cover.
You have to use aluminum foil to make it work, which kind of defeats
the purpose of having to spend $8.95 for a pair of these
adapters. Time for Plan B.
I have seen many websites recommending a spring to hold the battery in place. Please don't do this.
I'll tell you why. Most of the older battery-powered devices have
the ground tied to the metal chassis. Assume that includes the
case. (If you ever want to know for sure with a particular device, get a multimeter and
check continuity between the negative battery spring and the metal case.)
The inside of the Electro 35 battery channel looks like one continuous
conductor all the way to the outside of the case, but if you look
closely, you can see there's a thin disjunction, a separate layer,
where the battery cover goes in. Aha!
I take that to mean the positive should not touch the sides of the channel.
By putting in a spring to hold the battery, you could cause a short to
the chassis ground. At best, the thin spring will slip right off
the battery terminal and break contact. At worst, you could
damage the camera. Shorted batteries deplete quickly and can
overheat, leak, and in some cases, burst.
You don't want an alkaline battery leak.
I've read about people having weird problems with the Electro 35
metering. I have a feeling it's because they were getting
intermittent shorts to the chassis ground, which could mess up the
potential difference required to run the camera properly.
Really: don't use a spring. (Just so you know, the "pad of
death" problem can cause erratic metering, too. My 35G was doing
Now, let me tell you an easy way to fix the battery-fit problem.
Stop at the hardware store and get two 5/16" nuts and a bolt that's
just long enough to fit both of them. There should not be any
part of the bolt protruding past the outer nut. As a side note, I
found out that these itty-bitty pieces of hardware can bring your local home
improvement store to a standstill. Their fancy system can't even
accommodate someone bringing these to the cash register, unless they
have something to scan with a bar code. In the old days, hardware
stores knew their parts, and if they didn't, they could figure out how
to look it up. Today, these fancy automated systems are so
dumbed-down that everybody is helpless if they don't have a bar
code. That's kind of ridiculous. It is a
lot easier to shop at a place that sells nuts and bolts by the pound
than to shop somewhere that needs a SKU or barcode for every 9-cent
item. The emerging "smart economy" has a whole raft of issues that don't make it look very smart.
Anyway, now you've got the parts to make an adapter, so let's
proceed. First, wrap the PX28 battery in paper (but not the ends) so it doesn't rattle
around in the battery channel. Use plain paper, not newspaper. Don't use
aluminum foil. The positive end of the battery should
be toward you, so you can see
it when it's in the battery compartment.
Next, put both of those 5/16" nuts onto the short bolt and tighten them together. Now, wrap the sides in electrical tape
so only the ends are bare. It should resemble the picture
above. The electrical tape will prevent the positive from
shorting to the inside of the battery channel. This bolt with the
nuts is just the right length to hold a PX28 battery in place.
Don't lose the battery compartment cap.
You will probably never find another cap unless you buy a junked
Electro 35. Well, maybe not "never", but don't lose it. The cap appears to have been designed to separate the
positive terminal from the chassis ground. The positive connects
with that thin layer I mentioned earlier. This is a precision
part that would be quite difficult to make.
The Yashica Electro 35 is a nice camera that doesn't cost too
much. The optics are above-average and yield sharp images if you focus properly. With an f/1.7 lens, the
Electro 35 is good for low-light situations.
If you want to get into rangefinder photography, this is a
good way to start. There were so many of them manufactured
that the odds of your finding a usable one are pretty good. The
odds of finding a non-usable one are also pretty good, so be choosy.
The Electro 35 has a solid heft to it, yet it's smooth and has
character. It has the manufacturing quality of that era, when things were made out of metal
and had excellent fit and finish. The only thing I don't like
about the Electro 35 (beside the battery issue and the "POD") is that
it lacks a true all-manual mode. Maybe once you try it, though,
you won't mind that a bit.
You can pick up a used Electro 35 through this link or the one shown below. Get your stuff through any of these links, and it really helps me out.
I hope you enjoyed this article. Thanks for visiting!
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