Digital   Camera Reviews


The Canon EOS 6D is a full-frame DSLR that features a 20.2-megapixel CMOS sensor.  While its image quality is virtually identical to the 5D Mark III, it costs significantly less.

Could the 6D really be Canon's best digital camera yet?    Is that even possible, given that Canon offers several cameras with more features and more megapixels?

Let's find out.  

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In This Article:


Some Specs

Power Up & Basic Use


Buttons & Controls

Canon 6D vs. 5D Mark III

Continuous Shooting


Gray Market Versions

High ISO / Low Light Performance

Image Quality

Landscape Use




You might have heard that the 6D is supposed to be for enthusiasts looking to upgrade.

Indeed, many people are looking to move up from a beginner- or mid-range DSLR.  They've been using an EOS Rebel, a 50 / 60 / 70D, or maybe a Nikon D3000 / 5000 / 7000 series.   (Nikon is up to the D3400, last I checked.)

Even a lot of people who use their cameras to make a living have been using crop-sensor cameras (Rebels, D7000's, etc).  In certain photography markets it doesn't make any sense to spend the money on a 1DX or 5DIII kit, because you won't make the money back soon enough.  That's really the subject of another article, but suffice it to say the market has changed a lot in the past decade.

Some people have even contemplated a used 5D Mark II, but they wonder if the 6D might be more worthwhile:  it's newer and better in some ways.

The Canon 6D fills an important place in the camera lineup.   It is Canon's first "affordable" full-frame DSLR.

If you've hung around this site for long enough, you know that I'm not usually an early adopter when it comes to digital camera technology. 

There's nothing wrong with jumping in on the latest and greatest.  But the thing is, I'm already a film guy, and I plan to keep using it indefinitely.   I can photograph events, or whatever, without a single digital picture in the bunch.  So, I don't necessarily feel compelled to go out and use the newest digital gear.   When I do consider a purchase, it's a very careful one, and it had better be useful.  That's where I'm coming from when I review digital cameras. 

Most of us have to make our camera-buying dollars count.  So when a camera costs more than, say, five or six hundred, it had better be a close approximation to the "best camera ever".   

Let's find out if the 6D can measure up.

Some Specs

Autofocus Points:  11, with one cross-type AF point
Batteries:  single Li-ion rechargeable pack, 1800 mAh (Canon LP-E6)
Battery Life:  over 1,000 shots if you keep Wi-Fi and GPS disabled;  much less if they're on.
Connectors:  A/V OUT (Digital);   HDMI Mini OUT;   1/8" Mic IN;   N3-type Remote Control
Continuous Shooting (Burst Rate):   4.5 frames per second
Dynamic Range:  12.1 EV (according to DxO)
Exposure Compensation:  +/- 5 EV in 1/2 or 1/3 stop increments
Exposure Control:   Auto, Programmed Auto (P), Aperture Priority (Av), Shutter Priority (Tv), Manual (M)
Flash:  None  (but has a hotshoe for external flash unit)
Flash Sync Speed:  1/180 sec.
Focus Lag:  290 milliseconds
GPS:  Yes
HDR modes:  Yes
Image Formats:  JPG and 12-bit RAW
Image Processor:  DIGIC 5+
Image Stabilization:  lens-based
ISO settings:  ISO 100 through 12800, with Auto ISO and Extended settings available
Lens Mount:  Canon EF
Made in:  Japan
Metering:  Evaluative, Center-Weighted, & Spot modes
Microphone Input:  Mono only
Optical Low-Pass Filter (OLPF):  Yes
Panoramic Modes:  No, but software is included for your computer
Pixel Pitch:  6.54 µm
Release Date:  December 2012
Resolution:  20.2 megapixels
Sensor:  Full-frame CMOS (35.8 x 23.9 mm)
Size:  about 5.7 inches wide by about 4.4 inches tall
Shutter:  Focal plane
Shutter lag:  59 milliseconds  (compare with 5D MkIII @ 61 ms;  Rebel T3 @ 113 ms)
Shutter speeds:  30" to 1/4000;  Bulb
Startup Delay:  500 milliseconds
Touchscreen:  No (and I'm glad of it...)            
Video:  1080px HD (PAL & NTSC) @ about 30 fps;  720 px @ about 60 fps.
Video Snapshot:  Yes
Viewfinder:   Optical
Viewfinder Coverage:  97%
Weight (no batteries):  24 ounces (680 grams).... compare with 860 grams for the 5D Mark III
Weight (with battery):  26.7 oz (755g).... compare with 950 grams for the 5D Mark III
Weather Sealing:  Yes  (basic)
Wi-Fi:  Yes

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Table of Contents

Power-Up and Basic Use

The EOS 6D's power switch is located under the Mode dial, just as it is on the 5D Mark III. 

Start-up delay is 500 ms (half a second).   Compare with my favorite affordable DSLR, the Canon Rebel T3, which has a lightning-fast startup delay of only 300 ms.  The extra 0.2 second is probably not going to make or break it for most uses.  Street photography, maybe, but then again I don't think of the full-size DSLR as a street photography camera anyway.  (Although it could be.  Get the 40mm pancake lens, which you should get anyway, because it rocks.)

How to tell if your 6D is really new:  As the camera powers on, it should ask you to set the date and time if you got yourself a new unit.  Just realize that it doesn't necessarily happen the first time.  It could ask you on the third or fourth power-up, depending on what you were doing with the camera and how soon you turned it off each time. 

The menu system will look pretty familiar to anyone who uses Canon DSLR's.   There's your WB Shift/Bkt feature, of course, which I seem to use a lot. 

The Canon 6D back panel and menu system.

Once you learn the pair of control wheels, the Menu button, and maybe the Q button, you can start taking good pictures almost immediately.  (Actually, you don't even really need to learn those;  just use Auto mode.) 

If you've already used any Canon DSLR, many of the Menu entries will be self-explanatory.

Exposure compensation is changed by lightly pressing the shutter, then rotating the thumbwheel that's around the "SET" button.  This is one of the more often-used features, especially on a DSLR where you're trying to avoid clipping highlights.

I often use the "ISO speed settings" menu.  Here you can set the camera to ISO 50 ("L") if you want.  This gives extremely fine-grain images.  You can also tell the camera what minimum shutter speed you want.  When set to Auto ISO, the camera will then raise the ISO speed instead of lowering the shutter speed.  This is extremely useful when you're using a non-IS lens such as this one.

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Buttons & Controls

At first glance, the 5D Mark III looks like it has more buttons than the 6D.  (Numerous buttons can go either way as far as usability, but generally it's better than having to fuss with a menu to change settings.)

The thing is, the 6D simply moves a few buttons away from their customary location.  If you've been using the 5D series, you'll know that location as the left edge of the back panel.   Well, stuff has been moved, but don't you worry none:  the EOS 6D has plenty of external controls.  (Gone:  the Rate button from the 5D3.)

I'd actually have liked to see the buttons stay along that left edge, but it's OK.  If you're not already acclimated to a 5DII / III (or a Nikon D7000 etc), you'll be learning fresh anyway.  (With me it was the D7000, but it seems I'm constantly learning new control sets for different cameras.)

By the way, a bit of irony:  the lowly Canon T3 may well be faster than any of the "pro" or "prosumer" cameras when you want to set the ISO or exposure compensation.   The buttons are conveniently located so you can operate them without ever taking your right hand off the camera.  With that said, you can become pretty fast with the EOS 6D once you learn where everything is. 

Like the T3 and its bigger brethren such as the 5D Mark III, the Canon 6D has the "Q button".  This allows you to move quickly between settings:  aperture, ISO, self-timer, and just about anything else.  The Q button allows you to bypass the menu banks, which saves a lot of time. 

Even better, the 6D has two Custom mode positions on the dial, as you'd expect for a prosumer or pro camera.  You can easily program the C1 and C2 positions through the Menu.  Any combination of settings, and you can store 'em.  Aperture, ISO, shutter speed, expo comp, white balance, color mode, you name it... these will store it all.  Want to run the 6D at ISO 50 in Standard mode with the saturation cranked to the max?  The Custom modes will let you save that, or any other combination.

I like to use the C1 slot for landscapes, and the C2 slot for pictures of people.   My C1 is set to RAW + L, and C2 is just L (i.e., JPG). 

A pro-level camera just wouldn't be the same without the Custom slots.  I'm really glad they're here on the 6D.  (The enthusiast Canon SX50 happens to have these, but the Rebel DSLR's don't.)

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Some people will be coming from the 5D Mk III-- perhaps looking for a backup camera-- and expecting large numbers of AF points.  The same thing will happen for someone moving up from a Nikon D7000, D7100, etc.

The 6D has only eleven AF points, and yes, this will slow you down if you're already accustomed to the 5D3, D7100, etc.  

Others will remember back to the autofocus technology of 1989.  In low light, those early AF lenses would often hunt back and forth ("focus pumping"), getting the wrong thing in focus.  With practice you could get a "knack" for using them properly.  This never failed to mystify beginners.  Well, if you remember those days of camera technology, the Canon 6D's autofocus will seem very good.   And really, it is.  It's just not "pro-sports photography" good, at least not by today's standards. 

And by the way, the 6D has more AF points than the 5D Mark II (which had nine).   Both the 6D and 5D2 have only one cross-type AF point.  You may remember the 5D2 received its share of rave reviews from pro photographers when it came out.   And actually, the 6D's cross-type point has much improved low-light performance over the 5D2, and somewhat improved (1 stop) over the 5D3.

Yes, the 5D Mark III has a whopping 41 cross-type AF points, while the 6D has only one cross-type AF point.   But let's not jump to conclusions here.   First, unless you're using a fast lens, most of those cross-type points are near the center of the picture anyway. 

Second, and more important:   What are you doing with the camera?   Portraits, and often wedding ceremonies, have people standing relatively still.  When they're moving, it's not usually at a run.  

To this day I still use early autofocus technology for many situations.   If you're concerned about AF speed at weddings, and you want to feel more confident when (say) the bride and groom are walking toward you, here's my suggestion.  Use a Canon 6D for most of the wedding, and use a 70D for those challenge situations such as the reception-hall entrance.  (The 70D has a focus lag of only 75 milliseconds... much faster than even the 5D3.) 

You can get both these cameras together-- with lenses-- for less than the cost of a 5D Mark III with lens
.    That, to me, is the sensible route.  If either camera quits, you'll still have a fully-functioning unit.   I've seen so many new photographers show up at events with one, expensive camera.  I'd rather carry two or three less-expensive cameras, because I'm confident in my ability to produce good photos with them.

(Please help me keep this site going by purchasing your Canon 6D through this link or your Canon 70D through this one.)

By the way, numerous AF points can be a problem where there's more than one person moving at the same time.  You could encounter this at a wedding reception.  How does your 61-point camera know which person on the dance floor you were trying to photograph? 

It doesn't.   Sure, the 5D3 has predictive AF (and so does the 6D), but the fact is, it still has to be told initially which object you want to focus on.

For some situations I'd rather have one AF point and tell it where to focus, and of course you can set the camera for that.

With a focus lag of 290 ms, though, the Canon 6D focuses at less than half the speed of the 5D Mark III, and about 84 ms slower than the 5D Mark II.  It is, however, just a bit faster than the Rebel T3's 309 milliseconds.   As you might guess, the Rebel T3 is a lot faster than the 1989 AF technology which I still often use successfully.  So I don't see the 6D's AF as much of a problem.  It's at least tolerable for what I'd do with it. 

It may be surprising, but if you can learn to use the center focus point, the 6D will autofocus better and faster in low-light than most of its competitors.  If we're talking about real, low-light focus where you don't want to disturb the subject-- a baby, or perhaps a musician in concert-- the 6D is your camera.  When you read about people having trouble in low light with this camera, more often than not you'll find they are long-time 5D Mark III users, and they're coming from that whole acclimation.  Once you learn a system, it's hard to jump to another "just like that".   To use the 6D's center AF point, you'll have to go old-school:  focus and re-compose the shot, then press the shutter button fully. 

Some people are never going to like the 6D's eleven AF points with that single, central cross point;  and that's OK.   Learning to rely entirely on that single AF point in low light is an acquired skill, but it can be done.

For landscape photography, again you're dealing with static subjects.  You shouldn't need massive numbers of AF points here, either.

Also, the 6D's viewfinder is big and bright enough to allow manual focusing on sight alone.   That's how I've been photographing stuff for years;  that's how I photograph stuff with large format;  and I'm perfectly content to photograph stuff the same way on the Canon 6D.  (The only time my LF shots are out-of-focus is during those off times when the film holder didn't fully seat in the back of the camera... argh.)

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The 6D has no pop-up flash, but neither does the 5D Mark III.  

Canon probably expects that you'll be using one of their pro flash units such as the Canon 430EX II or perhaps the Canon 600EX-RT.   That's because pop up flash is nice to have for fill lighting, but for indoor use it often causes red-eye and has a tendency to look too harsh. 

If you just want fill-flash for nearby subjects, get yourself a Canon 90EX Speedlite.  Not very powerful, but the big advantage is that it acts as a wireless flash trigger. 

The next master wireless-control in the Canon lineup is the much more expensive 580EX II

If you think there's any chance you're going to have to control external flash units with your 6D-- and eventually you probably will-- just get the 90EX.  The 6D lacks any built-in wireless flash control of its own, unlike the 5D3.

For an affordable lighting setup that still works great, use the 90EX on-camera and hold a 270EX II or a 320EX off-camera.

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Gray Market Versions

If you're willing to forego the warranty, you can get a brand-new 6D for under $1000 now.  Try this link for a gray market one.  I'd still really recommend getting a real USA-warranty version, even though it costs considerably more. 

Then again, last I checked that link, you could almost buy two of the gray market versions for the price of a single USA-warranty version.  If the gray market one fails, though, it's kind of iffy.  There is a chance that Canon could refuse to service gray market cameras, even if you wanted to pay for the repairs.  (I believe Nikon won't work on them at all, but then again I don't buy new Nikon cameras anymore.)  Your mileage may vary.

Most of the links on this page are for the authorized USA version, so it'll have the full Canon warranty.

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Table of Contents

Continuous Shooting

The EOS 6D offers 4.5 fps burst rate.  Let's see how that compares with some other Canon DSLR's.

Canon EOS Rebel T3
3 fps
Canon EOS Rebel T3i
3.7 fps
Canon EOS 5D Mark II
3.9 fps
Canon EOS 6D
4.5 fps
Canon EOS 60D
5.3 fps
Canon EOS 5D Mark III
6 fps
Canon EOS 70D
7 fps
Canon EOS 7D
8 fps

Again, the 6D might not be the top choice for professional sports photography, but it ought to be good for local softball games.  Its framerate should also be more than adequate for weddings and other events. 

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High ISO  /  Low-Light Performance

The EOS 6D with its full-frame, 20-MP sensor has a larger pixel size (6.54 µm) than the 5D Mark III (6.25 µm).  Since both cameras have Digic 5+ processors, that means the Canon 6D offers the better low-light performance. 

Will you notice the difference in real life?  Maybe, maybe not.  

Here's what I notice.  With the EOS 6D you can shoot at ISO 6400 with noise reduction turned completely off.  And the pictures look great.  This camera is a low-light superstar.  In fact, if you are looking for high ISO / low-light performance (as many shutterbugs are these days), the Canon EOS 6D is probably the best DSLR on earth

I would buy a Canon 6D on this basis alone.   (Please use this link to get your 6D;  it helps keep my website on line.  The only way I get paid for the work I do to bring you these articles is when you shop through these links.).

Canon 6D vs. 5D Mark III?  In low-light the 6D wins, even if only by a small amount.

What I find a lot more interesting is the difference in low-light performance between the 6D and the APS-C cameras.  That's because a lot of 6D buyers will be coming from APS-C.  Let's use the Rebel T3 as an example, because (A.) I'm constantly talking about this camera, and (B.) it's so affordable that tons of people have 'em.  The Rebel T3 has a pixel pitch of 5.19 microns, which is smaller than the 6D's 6.54.     Obviously, the 6D will have far better low-light performance, but how much, exactly? 

(For some more 6D high-ISO pics, have a look at the 6D High ISO page). 

Let's try some photos.  This is a rather typical home-lighting situation.  I didn't brighten the photos;  this is exactly as it looks in the room

The Spotted Hippo

Canon EOS 6D
Ambient room light
No adjustments

This was at a lower ISO (400) just to provide baseline.

Mainly I'm a film guy, but the high-ISO performance is the one thing that really draws me to use a DSLR.  At ISO 3200, film gets very grainy.  I don't mind that, but some people are like "What??"   (Pedestrians, I tell you.)

It's very much possible to shoot film at high ISO (actually, EI) with good results.  With that said, digital generally does have the better low-light performance.  And the Canon 6D is about the best digital camera you can get for low-light use.  The newer 6D Mark II doesn't improve it much, if at all.

In fact, the 6D has better high-ISO performance than the 5D Mark III.  Not everyone will notice the difference, but there is a slight one in favor of the 6D.

Elsewhere I've said that I think full-frame DSLR's are too expensive, but when you think about this fact-- that the 6D is so good in low light-- it starts to become worth it.  

Actually, it is worth it, because right now the really top-notch APS-C cameras are over $1,200 anyway.   They have some advantages-- mainly, better AF-- but for still photography such as landscapes, I'd say just order a 6D.  You can be out there taking pictures instead of waiting until next year.

The Spotted Hippo at ISO 25600

Noise Reduction OFF (!)
Slight brightness / curve adjustments

(Click image or here to see full-size with no adjustments)

To see other ISO settings in fine detail, click here for the low-light / high-ISO section.   Also, there you'll find the Canon T3 vs 6D high-ISO comparison there.&nsbsp; Maybe I'll compare it with other, newer DSLR's some other time, but I just wanted to show a baseline here.  (A lot of people who are considering the 6D are moving up from one of these types of cameras, too.)

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Full-frame DSLR video is awesome, as long as we're talking strictly about image quality. 

The weak point has always been autofocus. 

If you're just going to do static shots, or you're good with manual focus, then the EOS 6D will make some great videos. 

If you demand autofocus for video, head straight for one of these instead, which I would get without hesitation if video were my primary goal.  (Though I would still probably use manual focus more often.)  
(See also my Canon 70D vs. 7D Mark II comparison, if video is your primary goal.)

Traditionally, autofocus was never used by pro filmmakers.  AF movie cameras didn't even exist until somewhat recently.  The pros always knew how far to turn the focus ring, and which way to turn it, if someone or something was moving toward or away from the camera.   It's not rocket science, actually.  If you want to videotape your baby, or the kids opening Christmas presents, forget the autofocus;  use the manual focus ring!   If you want to do any pro-quality video work, you're probably better off just getting proficient with that.  

If even remotely thinking of video, I would get a good prime lens with a good, solid manual focus ring.


The 6D's real video weakness is lack of audio monitoring.  Straight out of the box, this is kind of a major issue for pro videographers.  (It's not really an issue for amateur users.)  It means you can't plug in headphones and listen to the audio as you record, so really you'll have no idea if it's going well.   There is apparently a workaround, which I haven't tried:  use one of these as your microphone, and then monitor the audio through its output jack.  So if you're a pro videographer, you don't have to skip the 6D, but there is some work to get it where you want it.

Meanwhile, if you just want to video your baby in his cradle, no problem;  the 6D will do just fine the way it is.   For videos that are not your paid work, you probably won't need to monitor the audio;  I've never had it record where the audio didn't sound fine.

Video footage in HD mode (1080p) is just under 30 fps. 
In 720p the video is approximately 60 fps. 

The audio signal is mono, not stereo, just so you know.   Here again:  not really an issue for amateur users. 

Even many pro video productions do not require stereo.  I had a company contact me and wanted me to do an instructional video for some circuit-breaker panel or something that they sell.  I asked them the requirements for the job.  "Easy," they said, "just hold the camera still, and edit out the cursing and swearing."  A lot of jobs are OK with mono sound.

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Image Quality

(See also my Canon 6D photo gallery.)

In daylight photos, you may or may not notice a difference in image quality between this and an APS-C camera.  It depends on what kind of lens you're using, your choice of subject, and the lighting.   Often I do notice a slight difference, but it's difficult to convey through a description.  The detail is finer, even at the same megapixel count.  The tones seem to be smoother and mellower.  Also, the full-frame makes it easier to achieve background blurring. 

Are these differences always noticeable?  No.  APS-C camera technology has improved quite a bit since the early days.  With a good lens, Canon Rebel T6i or T7i images could be put alongside full-frame ones, and in many cases I don't believe anyone would see the difference.  The advantage of full-frame comes out only sometimes. 

But sometimes, that sometimes is important.

As for resolution, the Canon 6D is sort of in a sweet spot.  It has few enough / large enough pixels to allow great low-light performance, but it has a sufficient number to show fine detail in landscapes. 

I've said before that the image quality is essentially the same as the 5D Mark III, though the 6D has a very slight edge in low-light performance.   For nature and landscape photography, the 6D can produce positively gorgeous images with that "full frame" look.  This was just a quick one;  at some point I'll post a bunch more:

Canon EOS 6D
Auto Chinon / Tomioka 55mm f/1.4
ISO 200
1/320th sec.
Auto color mode
WB A1,0

Larger version here (1600 pixels wide).

Know that this 1970's Chinon lens is rather soft at wide apertures.  (It's what I had handy at the time.)  And the paper-thin depth of field makes a lot of areas look out-of-focus.  It would have been better if I'd shown the detail resolution at, say, f/5.6 or f/8 with a tripod (film lenses have no image stabilization.)  But that's OK, you can at least get an idea here.

At this 100% crop size, the image would be 57 inches wide.  Someone recently asked me if the Canon EOS 6D is good enough for poster sized prints, and the answer is yes.  I don't know how often you make 57-inch wide posters;  that's almost five feet.   Actually, people have made posters larger than that using APS-C cameras, so there's no reason you couldn't go seven or eight feet wide here.  Again, if I'd wanted ultimate sharpness, I'd simply have narrowed the aperture a bit. 

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Canon 6D vs. 5D Mark III

Here's a quick rundown of some important similarities and differences. 

The differences might not be that significant, depending on what you're doing... or more important, depending on your skill level. 

Just for example, I find numerous AF points to be a hindrance for my shooting style, because I've trained for 25 years with single-point AF.   Large numbers of AF points are not better for every situation, and as we've seen, they can actually be a hindrance sometimes.

Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 6D
Autofocus points
Cross-type AF points
Continuous shooting speed (fps)
Custom mode slots (C1, C2, etc.)
Focus lag (ms)
ISO range (extended)
50 to 102,400
50 to 102,400
Live view
Low-light AF
down to EV -2
down to EV -3
Mirror Lockup
Pop-up flash
Sensor size
Shutter lag (ms)
Spot meter size (% of viewfinder)
Top-panel LCD
Weather sealing

Canon 6D vs. 6D Mark II

The new 6D Mark II improves some features, but not so much in the image quality department. 

The big improvement is video AF;  the Mk II has Dual Pixel technology.  They also greatly increased the AF points, from one all-cross point to 45 all-cross points.  So, the MkII has by far the better AF if you need to photograph weddings or do videography.  It also ups the HD video framerate from 30 fps (6D Mark I) to 60 fps.  If you need this for pro-quality video, here's your obvious choice between these two cameras. 

Landscape photographers, neither of these features is going to matter.  Image-wise, they're almost the same camera, despite the newer Digic 7 processor in the Mark II. 

This is why I haven't yet gotten a 6D MkII, and though I may review it eventually, the original 6D does what I need it to do in 2018.

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Table of Contents

Landscape Use

"The Best Landscape Camera Ever??"  Actually, the 6D is indeed my favorite pick for digital landscape photography, even though the 5D III and 6D Mk II have a bit more resolution.  Simply put, I like the 6D because it has the important features while being significantly less expensive.  That leaves "the rest of us" a realistic chance of saving up for some good glass.  (And if that's not an option, the cheap 50mm "plastic fantastic" really is fantastic at f/8.  Your ticket to Landscape City, for the price of what many people spend on artery cloggin' fast food every week.) 

Another thing about the 6D is its portability.  It's lighter than the 5D III, which means it's easier to carry to your destinations and actually use.   That really does make a difference, especially if you find you're having a harder time getting around than you used to.  I never used to care about excess weight in a camera bag...  I do now, though.

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The Canon 6D is still a brilliant camera.  If you do mostly still photography with the occasional video, and you don't need to photograph a lot of fast-action sports, the 6D is an excellent choice.  Get yours here

Based on its feature set, performance, and price, I wholeheartedly classify it as the "best digital camera ever" for landscapes, people photos, and all-around photography. 

Yes, there are a couple of more technically-capable cameras in the Canon stable, but they don't surpass the 6D by that much (if at all) in the most important area:  low-light photography.  This is one of the key reasons for getting a full-frame DSLR in the first place. 

I still prefer film over digital-- yes, for real-- but the Canon 6D is a winner.  Even in 2018, the 6D is one of the best low-light cameras available on the consumer market, especially for the price.

If you can budget this camera, absolutely get one.  You can really help me (and my little boy) by using this link to purchase your 6D with 24-105 L kit lens, or use this link to get your 6D without lens.  I feel confident that you are going to love this camera. 

As always, thanks for visiting my website. 


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